Fermented soybean liquid, the most-used condiment in human history. Each East Asian culture has developed its own profile.
Originated in China around 200 BCE, spread to Japan by the 7th century, to Korea by the same period. Each tradition diverged: the Japanese kicked koji into a much bigger role; the Chinese fermented longer for darker, richer profiles; the Korean version (jang) became thicker and more strongly fermented.
Salty and umami; fermentation depth varies. Chinese light soy is brisk and salt-forward; Chinese dark soy is sweet and molasses-like; Japanese koikuchi is balanced; tamari is wheat-free and richer; Korean joseon ganjang is the most pungent.
Universal. The cuisine and the recipe dictate the type — substituting is not a 1-to-1 swap.
Light soy: Pearl River Bridge or Lee Kum Kee. Dark soy: same brands, look for 'dark' or 'lao chou'. Japanese: Kikkoman is acceptable, Yamasa is better, Yamaroku Kiku Bisi is sublime. Korean: Sempio.
Tamari (gluten-free), coconut aminos (lower-sodium, sweeter). Avoid 'low-sodium' versions for cooking — they have less umami too.
Pantry until opened, refrigerated after for best flavour. Indefinitely stable.
